High Stile, Seat via Buttermere

The walk, stage by stage

1. 1

   Start → Red Pike (Buttermere) (3.3 km, 663 m)

   Climb of about 663 m over 3.3 km (around 20% average).

   Depart Buttermere village, cross the grazing fields to the lake edge and the footbridge over Sourmilk Gill, and begin the ascent through Burtness Wood on a pitched path that climbs south, away from the gill. Above the trees it turns back west and climbs beside the gill. Emerging at the bowl of Bleaberry Tarn, catch your breath before the final, punishingly steep zig-zag path directly up the rust-colored scree to the summit of Red Pike.

   Waypoints

   Buttermere village (start), Sourmilk Gill, Bleaberry Tarn, The Saddle, Red Pike summit (755m).

   Decision point

   In the wood the path leaves Sourmilk Gill; above the trees the gill is a handrail for the last half kilometre to Bleaberry Tarn. Above Bleaberry Tarn, the eroded, red-soiled path to the summit is obvious in all but the thickest winter snow.

   Easy to get wrong

   The final push from Bleaberry Tarn to the summit is a relentless 250m wall of loose, red syenite scree that slides away underfoot and saps energy fast. In the wet, the pitched stone steps lower down become greasy, and the summit is heavily exposed to westerlies funneling over the Ennerdale valley.

   If you need to get off

   The only sensible retreat before the summit is to turn 180 degrees and descend the same path past Bleaberry Tarn to Buttermere. Do not try to cut corners across the steep, craggy northern flanks above the lake.

2. 2

   Red Pike (Buttermere) → High Stile (1.1 km, 90 m)

   Climb of about 90 m over 1.1 km (around 8% average).

   From the summit of Red Pike, bear south-east to pick up the ridge path that arcs above the steep northern face. The route is an undulating climb over shattered rock and stony ground, tracing the rim of Chapel Crags to the broad summit plateau of High Stile.

   Waypoints

   Red Pike summit, Chapel Crags (rim), High Stile summit plateau (806m).

   Decision point

   The sheer drop of Chapel Crags is on your left for the entire traverse. In thick clag, stay a safe distance from the edge by walking on a south-easterly bearing, following the old iron fence posts where visible.

   Easy to get wrong

   The gradient eases here, but the drops to your left (north) are precipitous; large cornices form over Chapel Crags in winter, presenting a hidden, fatal drop if you walk too close to the edge. The terrain underfoot is rocky and can be jarring on the ankles over prolonged stretches.

   If you need to get off

   If the weather closes in, you must either retrace your steps to Red Pike and descend via Bleaberry Tarn, or push onward to High Crag to use the Scarth Gap descent. Escaping south into Ennerdale commits you to a long detour, miles from your starting point.

3. 3

   High Stile → High Stile (Grey Crag - High Stile) (0.3 km, 13 m)

   Undulating section of about 0.3 km.

   Cross the brief, rocky expanse of the High Stile plateau, heading east over the minor depression on the summit. It is a short, almost level stroll across boulders to the cairn just above Grey Crag, with plunging views down the length of Buttermere.

   Waypoints

   High Stile summit, Grey Crag viewpoint cairn.

   Decision point

   Rely on a compass bearing if the cloud base drops, as the faint paths across the plateau easily vanish into the stones. The cairn above Grey Crag sits on the north-eastern lip, where the ridge begins to swing south-east towards High Crag.

   Easy to get wrong

   The summit plateau is broad, flat and featureless apart from scattered boulders, which makes it easy to lose your way in thick fog. The rock here holds puddles and small tarns that turn to ankle-deep icy sludge in winter.

   If you need to get off

   Due to the sheer cliffs of Grey Crag to the north and the remoteness of Ennerdale to the south, there is no immediate bailout here; you must proceed forward to High Crag or retreat to Red Pike.

4. 4

   High Stile (Grey Crag - High Stile) → High Crag (Buttermere) (1.6 km, 49 m)

   Descent of about 115 m, then a climb of about 49 m, over 1.6 km.

   Leave the Grey Crag viewpoint along the ridge as it bends south-east, dropping steadily over rocky, broken ground into the saddle. From the depression, a short climb weaves through small craglets and patches of scree to the pointed, rocky summit of High Crag.

   Waypoints

   Grey Crag viewpoint, High Stile/High Crag depression, High Crag summit (745m).

   Decision point

   The ridge path is distinct and well-cairned, hugging the rim of Burtness Comb to your left. Keep the steep northern drops on your left across the saddle.

   Easy to get wrong

   The descent from High Stile is rocky and needs careful foot placement, particularly when the stones are wet. The ridge narrows here, funneling the prevailing westerly winds over the saddle, which can create powerful, buffeting updrafts that can knock tired walkers off balance.

   If you need to get off

   Do not attempt to drop into Burtness Comb from the saddle; the ground is dangerously steep, craggy, and pathless. Your only viable escapes remain turning back to Red Pike or pushing forward to the Scarth Gap descent.

5. 5

   High Crag (Buttermere) → Seat (0.9 km, 18 m)

   Descent of about 186 m over 0.9 km.

   Step off the High Crag summit and brace yourself for the descent of Gamlin End, pitching steeply south-east down the nose of the fell. Navigate the zig-zagging, pitched stone path and loose scree to the ridge below, where the minor rise of Seat is the last bump before the pass of Scarth Gap.

   Waypoints

   Gamlin End, Seat (minor summit, 561m).

   Decision point

   The engineered stone path down Gamlin End is well used, but in mist check your line on the map: the ridge runs on south-east over Seat to the crossroads of paths at Scarth Gap.

   Easy to get wrong

   Gamlin End is a knee-wrecker: a steep, loose and punishing descent where slips are common, even on the pitched stone sections added to stabilize the scree. Walking poles are recommended here to take the impact off your joints and keep your balance on the rolling stones.

   If you need to get off

   The way off the ridge is at Scarth Gap, just beyond Seat, where the pass path drops north to the head of Buttermere.

6. Seat → Finish (5.9 km, 48 m)

   Descent of about 436 m, with about 48 m of climbing, over 5.9 km.

   From the minor bump of Seat, continue down to Scarth Gap and turn north, following the rough, stony packhorse path that winds down the hillside to the valley floor at the head of the lake. Cross Peggy's Bridge to Gatesgarth and walk north-west along the B5289 for about 600 m, until the lakeshore path leaves it on the left; then follow the north-eastern side of Buttermere all the way back into the village to complete the circuit.

   Waypoints

   Scarth Gap, Scarth Gap pass path, Peggy's Bridge, Gatesgarth, the B5289, Buttermere north-eastern shore, Buttermere village.

   Decision point

   The descent path from Scarth Gap is a highly visible, historical route that is easily followed. Once at the valley floor, the shoreline of Buttermere acts as a continuous handrail back to the start point.

   Easy to get wrong

   The initial descent from Scarth Gap is a knee-jolting, rocky staircase that can be very slick after rain, needing concentration just when fatigue is setting in. The subsequent walk of about 4 km back along the lake is stunning but feels surprisingly long at the end of a big mountain day.

   If you need to get off

   You are effectively off the mountain once you reach the lake. Simply stick to the main shore path.