Ten tops on the rough ground west of Thirlmere — Wythburn Fell, Standing Crag and the Coldbarrow Fell saddles among them — in 23.1 km with 1,047 m of climbing and nothing steeper than about 10%. Severe for length; roughly 6.4 hours.
✎️ Planned route — drawn but not personally walked or checked yet. A planned line is a suggestion, not a guarantee — conditions change. Navigate independently and carry a map & compass. How to use this guide.
Difficulty profile
LengthSevere23.11 km — a long day out.
SteepnessSevereSteepest sustained pull about 36% around the 0.8 km mark.
TerrainModerateMostly good mountain path. desk assessment — not field-verified
NavigationModerateClear line, hard to stray. desk assessment — not field-verified
ExposureNot assessedExposure (drops, scrambling, how bad a slip would be) can’t be judged from gradient data alone, so we don’t guess. A rating appears once the route is editorially assessed or walked.
Five independent axes, not one score. “Desk” ratings come from maps and guidebooks, not yet walked — treat them as a guide, not a survey.
Conditions on this route
We score every Lakeland Wainwright each morning on cloud, wind, rain and underfoot, and this route crosses 1 of them. The worst summit governs the verdict — a route is only as kind as its roughest top.
Daylight is short from October to February — check today’s sunrise and sunset before you set off, and carry a head-torch and spare batteries. On short days, decide your turn-back time before you start.
This walk covers about 23.11 km with around 1047 m of ascent, taking in 10 summits. The map above shows the line; the elevation profile and stage notes are below.
Access & barriers
Can a dog, a buggy or dodgy knees manage this route? A quick read from the gates and stiles mapped along the way.
Dog
Mostly gates
Buggy
Not buggy-able
Knees
Tough descent
Dog: A stile of unmapped type — a dog may need lifting over.
Buggy: Stiles or rough going on the route.
Knees: A long, steep ~31% drop around the 16.0 km mark — hard on the knees.
On the line: 7 gates · 1 step-over stile · 1 stile (type unmapped)
Naismith-based estimate — a fast/steady range. Your pace will vary. These use Naismith’s textbook constants (5 km/h, 600 m of ascent an hour). Measured against a pace fitted to 41 recorded Lakeland walks they run about 8% slow, and we have left them that way deliberately: a slow estimate strands nobody.
The walk, stage by stage
1
Start → Wythburn Fell (2.1 km, 219 m)
Climb of about 219 m over 2.1 km (around 10% average).
Leave the Thirlmere valley floor, immediately picking up the steep, winding paths that pull up through the dense conifer plantations on the western shore. Once you break through the tree line and cross the boundary wall, the gradient eases slightly as you push onto the open, pathless, and deeply grassy slopes of Wythburn Fell
Waypoints
Thirlmere western shore (start), forestry boundary wall, Wythburn Fell summit
Decision point
The dense block of the Thirlmere commercial forestry provides a massive rear-reference point. Aim for the highest swelling of ground directly west/south-west of the tree line; the summit of Wythburn Fell is incredibly subtle and lacks a prominent marker
Easy to get wrong
The initial ascent through the forestry is steep, sheltered, and often humid, with slick pine needles and exposed roots underfoot. The moment you step onto the open fell, you are introduced to the defining characteristic of this central ridge: relentless, thick, water-holding tussock grass that instantly hides any semblance of a path and begins sapping your energy
If you need to get off
Turn 180 degrees and drop straight back down the grassy slope to the forest boundary. The logging tracks within the tree line provide a sheltered, infallible route back to the valley road
2
Wythburn Fell → Standing Crag (3.8 km, 334 m)
Climb of about 334 m over 3.8 km (around 9% average).
Embark on a long, arduous trek west/north-west across the desolate moorland. The route rolls persistently over a sea of peat and heather, skirting the marshy catchment of Harrop Tarn before culminating in a rough, pathless pull up to the highly distinct, blocky volcanic outcrop of Standing Crag
Standing Crag is one of the very few distinct, rocky features in this entire expanse. On a clear day, its sheer, blocky profile acts as a massive visual beacon, standing out sharply against the rolling green and brown moorland
Easy to get wrong
This nearly 4 km stretch is a brutal initiation into the central fells' notorious bogs. The terrain is completely off-piste, requiring you to constantly detour around deep, black peat hags and waterlogged sphagnum moss. Finding a walking rhythm is impossible, and your legs will take a beating from the uneven, hidden holes beneath the heather
If you need to get off
If the bogs become too exhausting, you can bail east towards Harrop Tarn, picking up the established forestry tracks that zigzag safely down to the western shore of Thirlmere
3
Standing Crag → Coldbarrow Fell - High Saddle (1.5 km, 98 m)
Climb of about 98 m over 1.5 km (around 7% average).
Leave the rocky respite of Standing Crag and head south-west, dropping slightly into a wide, spongy depression. Weave through the peat groughs before making a steady, gentle drag up the broad, grassy slope to reach the minor high point of High Saddle on Coldbarrow Fell
Waypoints
Standing Crag descent, Coldbarrow Fell ridge, High Saddle (approx 525m)
Decision point
In thick clag, you must rely entirely on a compass bearing to bridge the gap between these tops, as the terrain is featureless. The steep drops plunging into the Greenup Gill valley to your far west serve as a massive, dangerous boundary that you must avoid drifting towards
Easy to get wrong
The brief section of dry rock at Standing Crag quickly gives way to more saturated ground. The climb up to High Saddle is not steep, but the ground is heavily rutted with drainage channels that require physical exertion to jump over or climb out of, constantly breaking your stride
If you need to get off
Dropping west into the Langstrath/Greenup valleys is steep and commits you miles away from Thirlmere. Your safest bailout is to retrace your steps to Standing Crag and use the Harrop Tarn descent route
4
Coldbarrow Fell - High Saddle → Low Saddle (0.4 km, 0 m)
Undulating section of about 0.4 km.
Traverse north along the subtle ridge line, making a very short, easy stroll over the gently rolling, grassy crest to move from High Saddle to its slightly lower twin, Low Saddle
Waypoints
High Saddle, Low Saddle
Decision point
The ridge naturally funnels you from one bump to the next; simply follow the highest ground northwards, keeping the vast, boggy expanse of the central moorland to your right (east)
Easy to get wrong
This is a brief, straightforward ridge hop. However, the turf here remains exceptionally spongy and is fully exposed to crosswinds sweeping over the central spine of the Lake District, offering zero shelter
If you need to get off
There are no immediate lateral escapes here. You must push forward to the Bell Crags area or reverse your route south
5
Low Saddle → Bell Crags (Long Moss) (Blea Tarn Fell) (3.1 km, 119 m)
Climb of about 119 m over 3.1 km (around 4% average).
From Low Saddle, turn north-east and plunge into the heart of the central ridge's most notorious terrain. You must cross the sprawling, aptly-named expanse of Long Moss, a grueling, 3 km obstacle course of waist-deep peat hags and hidden bogs, before finally escaping onto the welcome, solid rock of Bell Crags
Waypoints
Low Saddle, Long Moss, Blea Tarn Fell (vicinity), Bell Crags
Decision point
Bell Crags provides a prominent, rocky bluff overlooking the Watendlath valley. Use it as a long-distance aiming point, but be prepared to deviate heavily from your compass bearing to navigate the maze of peat channels
Easy to get wrong
This is arguably the most soul-destroying section of ground in the Lake District. Long Moss is a massive, saturated sponge that never truly dries out. Expect to be frequently bluffed out by impassable pools of black muck, forcing wide, frustrating detours. The mental fatigue of finding a safe foot placement on every single step is immense
If you need to get off
If the bogs are impassable, your best escape is to force a line west/north-west towards the hamlet of Watendlath, dropping off the moorland to intersect the established bridleways and National Trust farm tracks
6
Bell Crags (Long Moss) (Blea Tarn Fell) → Watendlath Fell (Long Moss) (1.5 km, 25 m)
Descent of about 42 m over 1.5 km.
Step off the rocky edge of Bell Crags and head west back into the swamp. The route drops gently over trackless, reed-choked ground, traversing the northern periphery of Long Moss to reach the completely featureless, grassy swelling of Watendlath Fell
Waypoints
Bell Crags descent, Long Moss (northern edge), Watendlath Fell
Decision point
A dilapidated wire fence line occasionally appears in this sector; if you find it, use it as a rough handrail. Otherwise, rigorous pacing and a strict compass bearing are your only tools to find this subtle top
Easy to get wrong
You are immediately plunged back into awful underfoot conditions. Watendlath Fell is barely a summit—it is simply a very slight convexity in the bog. In low visibility, you will struggle to know if you have actually reached the high point, as the terrain looks identical in all directions
If you need to get off
Head due west to drop off the plateau into the enclosed, safe valley of Watendlath, utilizing the steep but grassy flanks to escape the endless bogs
7
Watendlath Fell (Long Moss) → Shivery Knott (0.7 km, 1 m)
Undulating section of about 0.7 km.
Continue the soggy trudge north across the plateau, linking whatever patches of drier heather you can find. A short, virtually flat traverse brings you to Shivery Knott, another incredibly minor, stony protrusion breaking the surface of the marsh
Waypoints
Watendlath Fell, Shivery Knott
Decision point
Keep the distant, forested slopes of Thirlmere in your mind as an eastern backstop. Shivery Knott offers a few scattered stones to confirm your arrival, but micro-navigation is essential
Easy to get wrong
The name "Shivery Knott" perfectly encapsulates the feeling of standing on this bleak, exposed, and waterlogged moor in bad weather. The ground remains treacherous, with sphagnum moss frequently concealing holes deep enough to swallow a leg to the knee
If you need to get off
Bailing east towards Thirlmere from here involves dropping into complex, steep forestry. If you must escape, heading west back towards Watendlath remains the most reliable option despite the extra distance
8
Shivery Knott → Middle Crag (0.5 km, 5 m)
Undulating section of about 0.5 km.
From Shivery Knott, hop a very short distance north over heavily rutted, peaty ground, crossing a minor depression to reach the slightly more pronounced rocky outcrop of Middle Crag
Waypoints
Shivery Knott, Middle Crag
Decision point
Middle Crag is visible from Shivery Knott in clear weather. Just aim for the nearest distinct patch of gray rock jutting out of the green and brown moor
Easy to get wrong
The sheer density of minor Birketts in this small area means constant stop-start navigation. The rocky top of Middle Crag is slippery when wet, but offers a brief, glorious few seconds of walking on something other than saturated sponge
If you need to get off
As with the previous tops, there is no immediate, safe eastern bailout here; you must either push north to High Tove or retreat west
9
Middle Crag → High Tove (0.7 km, 35 m)
Undulating section of about 0.7 km.
Leave Middle Crag and make a short, squelchy pull northwards. Cross the final, notoriously wet saddle of the central ridge before stepping up onto the broad, flat, and heavily eroded summit of High Tove
Waypoints
Middle Crag, High Tove summit (515m)
Decision point
High Tove is marked by an intersection of faint paths (the crossing between Watendlath and Thirlmere) and a modest pile of stones. It is the most distinct summit on this section of the plateau
Easy to get wrong
High Tove is infamous among fellwalkers as the king of the bogs. Even the main east-west path that crosses the summit here is often a 20-foot wide trench of liquid black peat, forcing you to constantly skirt the edges in deep heather to avoid sinking
If you need to get off
High Tove offers a perfect bailout. Turn left (west) to take the heavily eroded, obvious path directly down to Watendlath, or right (east) to pick your way down the steep, pathless flanks towards the Thirlmere forestry
10
High Tove → Fisher Crag (3.6 km, 173 m)
Climb of about 173 m over 3.6 km (around 5% average).
Turn your back on the central bogs and head south-east, beginning a long traverse back towards the Thirlmere side of the massif. Pick a careful line through the trackless heather, gradually losing elevation before making a final, sharp pull up the rocky, forested prominence of Fisher Crag, which plunges dramatically toward the lake
Waypoints
High Tove descent, central moorland eastern flanks, Fisher Crag summit
Decision point
The massive expanse of Thirlmere below is an infallible catching feature. Aim directly for the distinct, steep-sided wooded bluff of Fisher Crag that juts out prominently above the shoreline
Easy to get wrong
This 3.6 km traverse is rough, pathless, and exhausting at the end of the day. As you approach Fisher Crag, you transition back into the fringes of the commercial forestry, where fallen trees, hidden crags, and steep, slippery pine-needle banks make the final climb surprisingly awkward
If you need to get off
You are trending towards your final descent. If the terrain on Fisher Crag looks too hostile, simply aim for the dense tree line to the north or south of the crag and pick up the logging tracks to descend safely
Fisher Crag → Finish (5.4 km, 39 m)
Descent of about 196 m over 5.4 km.
Carefully descend the steep, craggy eastern nose of Fisher Crag, dropping rapidly through the trees to intersect the main forestry road that runs along the western shore of Thirlmere. Turn south and embark on the long, flat, easy march along the gravel track, tracing the edge of the lake all the way back to your starting point
Waypoints
Fisher Crag eastern descent, Thirlmere western shore road, finish point
Decision point
Aim straight down for the lake. Once you hit the wide, graded forestry road, navigation is over; it serves as a massive, continuous handrail that will lead you perfectly back to the start
Easy to get wrong
The initial drop off Fisher Crag is dangerously steep, with vertical crags hidden in the trees; take extreme care to find a safe, zig-zagging line down through the timber. The subsequent 5.4 km walk-out is perfectly flat but feels punishingly long on the hard-packed gravel after a day spent battling the soft bogs of the high plateau
If you need to get off
You are on the final escape route. Simply stick to the main gravel track along the lake shore, avoiding any side trails that head back up into the steep forestry
In the order you walk them — the same numbers the elevation profile, the stage notes and the pacing table use.
🅿️ Getting there & parking
Dob Gill, Thirlmere (United Utilities, paid) — 0.1 km from the start (straight line)
West shore of Thirlmere - Harrop Tarn and Ullscarf. Fees: pay and display; coins and cards (LDNP directory, checked Aug 2026). Open Closed until Easter 2026; pedestrian access allowed (LDNP directory, checked Aug 2026). Pay and display (visitlakedistrict.com) (United Utilities, checked Aug 2026).
If it is full: Steel End, Thirlmere (paid) (1.4 km, 36 m up); Wythburn Church, Thirlmere (paid) (2.5 km, 97 m up)
Wythburn Church, Thirlmere (paid) — 0.9 km from the start (straight line)
Direct forest path up Helvellyn's south ridge (Comb Crags). Fees: Pay and display, pay by coin only (visitlakedistrict.com) (United Utilities, checked Aug 2026). Lee has parked here and recalls the machine taking coins, which agrees with United Utilities' own listing rather than the National Park directory's “cards only” - carry coins (Lee McCoy, recollection, recorded 12 Aug 2026).
Steel End, Thirlmere (paid) — 1.2 km from the start (straight line)
South end of Thirlmere for the Wythburn valley and Armboth fells. Fees: pay and display (Lake District National Park car-parks directory, checked Aug 2026). Pay and display (visitlakedistrict.com); named as a UU Thirlmere car park on unitedutilities.com, which states no fee details (United Utilities, checked Aug 2026).
Positions are approximate. Lakeland car parks fill before 9am on fine weekends.
Vehicles are left entirely at their owner’s risk. We list places people park; we cannot vouch for any of them. Judge it on the day: take valuables with you, leave nothing on show, and if a spot feels wrong when you get there, park somewhere else.
The 555 stops at Thirlmere, at Armboth turn. From there it is 1.8 km and 54 m of ascent to this start — a walk in before the walk. Last bus: Monday to Friday 20:55 towards Keswick (555); Saturday 20:55 towards Keswick (555); Sunday 18:46 towards Keswick (555). Checked against the operator’s timetable, 7 September 2026. Times here are a guide, not a promise — leave yourself more than the minute.
The 555 passes this route at 0.5 km (Thirlmere, opposite Wythburn Church, 660 m off the line) and again at 19.6 km (Thirlmere, opposite car park, 860 m off the line) — one bus, two stops, 3.5 km apart on the ground. We haven’t walked a shortened version, so the distance, grading and escape routes on this page describe the walk end to end.
Year-round, roughly hourly. The backbone bus of the A591 — ideal for Helvellyn (Wythburn/Swirls), Fairfield, the Central fells and anything around Grasmere/Rydal. From Penrith, take the X4/X5 to Keswick and change.
There is no real plan B here. Every place we know beside this route serves the same walks and sits close together, so if one is full the others usually are too. Worth starting early, or having a different walk in mind before you set off.
Armboth, Thirlmere (United Utilities, paid)
Dob Gill, Thirlmere (United Utilities, paid)
Fisher Crag (layby, south)
Worked out from the parking we hold within walking reach of this route and the other walks each place serves — two places that serve the same walks fill for the same reasons. We are not saying whether anywhere has spaces today, and we never will: this is what exists, not what is free.
When the sun reaches the tops
Not sunrise — the moment the sun clears the skyline from that summit, which on a fell with high ground to its east can be a good deal later. The two equinoxes are shown because they fall in the walking season, and late December too wherever a top keeps you waiting then; the clock gap between the equinoxes is British Summer Time, not the hill. Rounded to the nearest quarter hour and meant as a general idea, not a schedule.
High Tove — in late March the sun reaches it around 06:45, about half an hour later. In late September, about 07:30. It waits longest in late March — about half an hour after sunrise. In late December, not until about 08:45.
Modelled from a 30 m elevation model against each summit’s own skyline — the same figures the fell pages carry, never observed. Cloud is not in it.
⚠️ Safety & conditions
Access: The summit of Fisher Crag lies outside mapped CRoW open-access land. That records no statutory right of access — it is not a statement that access is forbidden, and permissive access is not recorded in that layer. This line is computed rather than walked, so treat the access as unchecked and look for the courteous way through — how we work this out.
It is the only property in this cluster whose own site answers a family question. The rooms page names sixteen rooms, numbered Room 2 to Room 17, and states the floor for each: rooms 10, 11, 12 and 13 are ground floor, and of those, Room 10 ("This room can accommodate two extra single beds for a family") and Room 11 ("This room can accommodate one extra bed for families and can be made as a twin") take extra beds - so a party with children and someone who cannot face stairs can be housed in one room without phoning first. Room 11 and Room 12 also state "Private patio space"; Room 10 does not. Against that, the site is silent on everything a wet walker asks - see unknowns - so this is a good family bed and an unproven walking one.
The hotel's grounds are inside a designated red squirrel reserve, and rather than lean on its postcode it publishes its front door as a what3words address, CRACKS.DIAMOND.RESPECTED.
Family rooms“A warm, traditionally designed family room, with one double and two single beds.”
Evening meal“Why not enjoy a trip out to nearby Keswick for the day before coming back and enjoying a delicious bar meal.”
Children“This room can accommodate two extra single beds for a family.”
What each place says about itself, quoted from their own site. We have not stayed at any of them, and there are no prices, no booking and no affiliate links. Distances are straight lines from the route start, never walking times. Properties found via OpenStreetMap (opens in new tab).
