Boat How, Great Bank & Wainwrights

The walk, stage by stage

1. 1

   Start → Boat How (3.3 km, 284 m)

   Climb of about 284 m over 3.3 km (around 9% average).

   From the Eskdale valley floor, pick up the historic packhorse trails or moorland tracks climbing steadily towards the vast, open expanse of Burnmoor. Before reaching the tarn, cut away from the main established path to navigate the rough, trackless grass and heather, making a steady pull up to the minor, rocky protrusion of Boat How

   Waypoints

   Eskdale (start), Burnmoor southern approach, Boat How summit (337m)

   Decision point

   The main Burnmoor track acts as a solid handrail for the initial climb. Boat How itself is an incredibly indistinct bump on the sprawling moor; use the towering, dramatic backdrop of the Scafell massif to the north-east to orient yourself before striking off into the pathless terrain

   Easy to get wrong

   The approach to the Burnmoor plateau is notoriously waterlogged. The deviation to Boat How involves off-piste bushwhacking through deep, energy-sapping heather and hidden peat hags that conceal ankle-twisting holes and slick, buried rocks. The 9% gradient feels significantly harder when fighting through this dense vegetation

   If you need to get off

   Simply turn back south/south-east and drop off the open moorland to intersect the established valley tracks, which will feed you safely back down into the shelter of Eskdale

2. 2

   Boat How → Illgill Head (4.4 km, 358 m)

   Climb of about 358 m over 4.4 km (around 8% average).

   Drop from Boat How to carefully navigate the sprawling, saturated basin surrounding Burnmoor Tarn. Cross the major track near Burnmoor Lodge, then brace for the relentlessly steep, grassy haul up the eastern flank of the Wastwater Screes, grinding uphill to reach the spectacular summit of Illgill Head

   Waypoints

   Burnmoor Tarn, Burnmoor Lodge (vicinity), Illgill Head eastern flanks, Illgill Head summit (609m)

   Decision point

   Burnmoor Tarn and the lonely stone building of Burnmoor Lodge serve as massive, unavoidable catching features in the depression. From the lodge, the heavily eroded path striking directly up the grassy dome of Illgill Head is impossible to miss in all but the worst whiteout conditions

   Easy to get wrong

   Burnmoor is a massive, infamous sponge; you must zig-zag constantly to avoid waist-deep black peat groughs. The subsequent ascent of Illgill Head is a massive, lung-busting grassy treadmill that offers absolutely zero shelter from the wind and becomes incredibly slick and frustrating to climb after heavy rain

   If you need to get off

   The area around Burnmoor Lodge is a major crossroads. From there, you can bail either south-east back to Eskdale or north-west down the engineered path to Wasdale Head, avoiding the exposed high ridges entirely

3. 3

   Illgill Head → Whin Rigg (Wasdale) (2.3 km, 70 m)

   Climb of about 70 m over 2.3 km (around 3% average).

   Traverse south-west along one of the most breathtaking ridge walks in the Lake District, linking the two high points of the Wastwater Screes. The route rolls gently over short turf, tracing the edge of the terrifying plunge into Wastwater, culminating at the grassy summit of Whin Rigg

   Waypoints

   The Screes rim, Wastwater viewpoints, Whin Rigg summit (535m)

   Decision point

   The sheer, yawning abyss to your right (north-west) is the most dramatic natural handrail imaginable. Keep a safe distance from the lip and let the distinct ridge line funnel you directly to Whin Rigg

   Easy to get wrong

   The walking here is sublime, but the danger lies immediately to your right. The edge of the Screes is composed of crumbling, unstable volcanic rock that drops almost vertically for nearly 500 meters into England's deepest lake. In winter, this edge forms massive, fatal snow cornices, so you must stay well back on the grass

   If you need to get off

   Under no circumstances should you ever attempt to descend the Screes directly into Wastwater. If the weather turns violently, retreat along the ridge to Illgill Head or push forward to use the safe descent into Miterdale

4. Whin Rigg (Wasdale) → Finish (10.7 km, 458 m)

   Climb of about 458 m over 10.7 km (around 4% average).

   Plunge south off Whin Rigg, descending steeply into the quiet, forested trench of Miterdale. Embark on a massive, undulating walk-out that requires crossing the valley floor, navigating the dense commercial forestry, and tackling a brutal, late-day re-ascent over the rugged, heathery heights of Great Bank before finally dropping back into Eskdale

   Waypoints

   Greathall Gill descent, Miterdale valley, Miterdale Forest, Great Bank, Eskdale (finish)

   Decision point

   The plunge into Miterdale uses the steep cut of Greathall Gill as a rough guide. Inside the forestry, pay strict attention to logging track junctions to avoid dead ends. The River Mite serves as a linear handrail on the valley floor before you cut away for the final arduous climb over the bank

   Easy to get wrong

   This is an agonizingly long and complex walk-out. The initial descent is a knee-jarring drop on wet grass. The killer is the 458m of re-ascent heavily concentrated on the trackless, bracken-infested push over Great Bank; this unexpected, rugged climb will completely drain tired legs and demoralize walkers who were expecting a flat valley stroll

   If you need to get off

   Once in Miterdale, you are on an escape route, but it is a long one. To entirely avoid the punishing re-ascent over Great Bank, you can stick strictly to the Miterdale valley tracks heading south-west to Eskdale Green, though this will deposit you further down the valley and may require a road walk back to your specific starting point