Boat How, Illgill Head & Whin Rigg

The walk, stage by stage

1. 1

   Start → Boat How (3.3 km, 284 m)

   Climb of about 284 m over 3.3 km (around 9% average).

   From the Eskdale valley floor, pick up the historic packhorse trails or moorland tracks climbing steadily towards the vast, open expanse of Burnmoor. Before reaching the tarn, cut away from the main established path onto paths OSM maps across the rough grass and heather (on the ground they may be faint), making a steady pull up to the minor, rocky protrusion of Boat How.

   Waypoints

   Eskdale (start), Burnmoor southern approach, Boat How summit (337m).

   Decision point

   The main Burnmoor track acts as a solid handrail for the initial climb. Boat How itself is an incredibly indistinct bump on the sprawling moor; use the towering, dramatic backdrop of the Scafell massif to the north-east to orient yourself before leaving the main track for the paths OSM maps across the moor.

   Easy to get wrong

   The approach to the Burnmoor plateau is notoriously waterlogged. The deviation to Boat How involves off-piste bushwhacking through deep, energy-sapping heather and hidden peat hags that conceal ankle-twisting holes and slick, buried rocks. The 9% gradient feels significantly harder when fighting through this dense vegetation.

   If you need to get off

   Turn back south/south-east and drop off the open moorland to intersect the established valley tracks, which will feed you back down into the shelter of Eskdale.

2. 2

   Boat How → Illgill Head (4.4 km, 358 m)

   Descent of about 82 m, then a climb of about 358 m, over 4.4 km.

   Drop from Boat How to carefully navigate the sprawling, saturated basin surrounding Burnmoor Tarn. Cross the major track near Burnmoor Lodge, then brace for the relentlessly steep, grassy haul up the eastern flank of the Wastwater Screes, grinding uphill to reach the spectacular summit of Illgill Head.

   Waypoints

   Burnmoor Tarn, Burnmoor Lodge (vicinity), Illgill Head eastern flanks, Illgill Head summit (609m).

   Decision point

   Burnmoor Tarn and the lonely stone building of Burnmoor Lodge serve as massive, unavoidable catching features in the depression. From the lodge, the heavily eroded path striking directly up the grassy dome of Illgill Head is hard to miss except in very poor visibility.

   Easy to get wrong

   Burnmoor is a massive, infamous sponge; you must zig-zag constantly to avoid waist-deep black peat groughs. The subsequent ascent of Illgill Head is a massive, lung-busting grassy treadmill that offers absolutely zero shelter from the wind and becomes incredibly slick and frustrating to climb after heavy rain.

   If you need to get off

   The area around Burnmoor Lodge is a major crossroads. From there, you can bail either south-east back to Eskdale or north-west down the engineered path to Wasdale Head, avoiding the exposed high ridges entirely.

3. 3

   Illgill Head → Whin Rigg (Wasdale) (2.3 km, 70 m)

   Descent of about 138 m, then a climb of about 70 m, over 2.3 km.

   Traverse south-west along one of the most breathtaking ridge walks in the Lake District, linking the two high points of the Wastwater Screes. The route rolls gently over short turf, tracing the edge of the terrifying plunge into Wast Water, culminating at the grassy summit of Whin Rigg.

   Waypoints

   The Screes rim, Wast Water viewpoints, Whin Rigg summit (537m).

   Decision point

   The edge on your right (north-west) drops to Wast Water; do not use it as a handrail. Keep well back from the lip.

   Easy to get wrong

   The walking here is sublime, but the danger lies immediately to your right. The edge of the Screes is composed of crumbling, unstable volcanic rock that drops almost vertically for nearly 500 meters into England's deepest lake. In winter, this edge forms massive, fatal snow cornices, so you must stay well back on the grass.

   If you need to get off

   Under no circumstances should you ever attempt to descend the Screes directly into Wast Water. If the weather turns violently, retreat along the ridge to Illgill Head, or push on to Whin Rigg and the route's own descent (next stage).

4. Whin Rigg (Wasdale) → Finish (10.7 km, 458 m)

   Descent of about 490 m, with about 458 m of climbing, over 10.7 km.

   Leave Whin Rigg south-west, then west and north-west, descending steeply beside Greathall Gill; cross the gill at a ford and continue west-south-west to the stage's low point, about 90 m, by Easthwaite. Embark on a massive, undulating walk-out: head south-west on public footpaths through woodland, ford Littlehall Gill, and climb south-south-east on a public bridleway through a gate into Miterdale Forest. Where the bridleway meets a gravel forest track, follow the track and then a path east onto Great Bank, to the route's high point there at about 310 m, and return the same way to the bridleway. Follow the bridleway south and south-east down through the forest into Miterdale, then east along a track to cross the River Mite on a bridge. Climb east-north-east on a forest track and then south-east on paths to about 230 m by Siney Tarn and Blea Tarn, then drop east and south past the Peat Huts to the valley road at Beckfoot, finally dropping back into Eskdale. Cross Whillan Beck on Beckfoot Bridge and follow the road east-north-east to the finish.

   Waypoints

   Greathall Gill descent and ford, Easthwaite (low point), Miterdale Forest, Great Bank, River Mite bridge (Miterdale), Siney Tarn and Blea Tarn, Beckfoot Bridge, Eskdale (finish).

   Decision point

   The descent uses the steep cut of Greathall Gill as a rough guide. It is steep ground, losing about 380 m in the kilometre down to the ford, so take care on it. Inside the forestry, pay strict attention to track junctions: the track onto Great Bank is a dead end, and you come back down it to the bridleway. The River Mite is crossed at the bottom of Miterdale, and the climb towards Eskdale starts straight after the bridge.

   Easy to get wrong

   This is an agonizingly long and complex walk-out. The initial descent is a knee-jarring drop on wet grass. The 458 m of re-ascent comes in two main climbs, both late in the day: from about 90 m at Easthwaite up the bridleway and forest track onto Great Bank at about 310 m, and, after dropping to about 80 m at the River Mite, up again to about 230 m by the tarns. Walkers expecting a flat valley stroll will find neither climb easy on tired legs. The last 0.5 km is on the valley road from Beckfoot Bridge, which has no pavement. Where there is no pavement, keep to the right to face oncoming traffic, stay close to the side and be ready to walk in single file; before a sharp right-hand bend, cross to the other side and cross back after it. Wear something bright, or reflective in poor light (Highway Code rules 2 and 3).

   If you need to get off

   Great Bank comes before Miterdale on this line, so Miterdale does not avoid it. No way out along the Miterdale valley tracks has been checked for this guide; follow the route's own line to the finish.