Ennerdale Water

The only lake with no road — and Wild Ennerdale

Almost every other lake has a road along at least one shore; Ennerdale has none, which is why it has stayed so wild and quiet. From the Bowness Knott car park, just above the north shore about halfway along the lake, you walk or bike the forest tracks along the lake and up the valley — there's no driving through.

That seclusion is now central to Wild Ennerdale, a long-running rewilding partnership (Forestry England, the National Trust and United Utilities) to let the valley become wilder and more natural — taking out blocks of conifer, letting native woodland and the river spread, and grazing hardy Galloway cattle in place of intensive farming. The upper valley became one of the largest National Nature Reserves in Cumbria in 2022. It's an ambitious "let nature lead" project, and walking up it you can feel the valley loosening back into wildness.

Can you swim in Ennerdale Water?

The honest answer is no swimming — Ennerdale is a drinking-water source, so open-water swimming isn't permitted (the same reasoning as the reservoirs). But, unlike some, it does allow some craft: the National Park's lakes activities guide lists canoes, kayaks and rowing boats as allowed, with “commercial groups/activity providers/groups need permit” from United Utilities, and paddleboards, sailing boats and powered craft as not allowed (Lake District National Park, read 28 September 2026). (Rules on water sources can change — check current guidance before you rely on it.)

Black Sail & the Coast to Coast

Four miles up the valley, below the crags of Haystacks Walked April 2026, stands Black Sail — a former shepherd's bothy that's now England's most remote youth hostel, reachable only on foot or by bike. It's a Lakeland icon and a famous overnight stop.

Ennerdale is also a highlight of Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk (now a National Trail): the route comes in at Ennerdale Bridge, runs the length of the lake and valley, passes Black Sail, and climbs out over to Honister and Borrowdale. Expect to share the valley with C2C walkers in season.

Walks & fells

This is big, serious fell country wrapped around a wild lake:

• The shore circuit — a walk of around 7 miles right around the lake on forest tracks and paths (rough and rooty in places), the classic way to take it in; no road, no shortcuts.
• The high fells ring the head of the valley — Pillar and Steeple, Great Gable, Haystacks and Crag Fell above the lake — proper mountain days from a remote start.

Check the live "Best Fells today" conditions before the tops — these are remote, committing fells. The Fells & walks nearby box below lists the closest summits with a full guide.

Getting there & parking

Without a car: The nearest stations as the crow flies are Corkickle (13 km away) and Whitehaven (14 km away). The bus map has every stop we hold.

There's no road along the lake, so you drive to the edge and continue on foot or bike. There's no public transport to the lake and no railway nearby — this is one to drive to, then leave the car behind.

Parking, toilets and buses: Parking near Ennerdale Water

Getting there across the Lake District: Buses · Parking map · By train · By boat

Where to stay & practical

There are no facilities at the lake itself — no café, limited or no toilets, no shops — so come prepared. The nearest village is Ennerdale Bridge (a pub and a little accommodation); for more, the West Cumbrian towns (Cleator Moor, Egremont, Cockermouth) are a drive away, and Black Sail YHA is the famous (and very basic) option up the valley itself for walkers.

It's superb, lonely walking and gravel-biking country — just respect that it's a working water source (no swimming) and a nature reserve. Over the fells to the south lies Wast Water and Wasdale; to the north, Crummock Water, Loweswater and the Buttermere valley.