Birketts above Ullswater

The walk, stage by stage

1. 1

   Start → Low How (3.4 km, 218 m)

   Climb of about 218 m over 3.4 km (around 6% average).

   From the High Cascades car park, the first 0.7 km is on the A5091 itself, heading north-north-west, then north-west, into Dockray and over Aira Beck on the road bridge. This is a 60 mph road with no pavement mapped on most of this stretch. Where there is no pavement, keep to the right to face oncoming traffic, stay close to the side and be ready to walk in single file; before a sharp right-hand bend, cross to the other side and cross back after it. Wear something bright, or reflective in poor light (Highway Code rules 2 and 3). At the Royal Hotel, leave the carriageway for a short service road and then a roadside footway that runs north beside the A5091 for about 0.35 km. Through a gate at about 1.1 km, public footpath 345 022 heads west across farmland, through two more gates, to a single-track lane with no pavement mapped; follow the lane west for about 0.8 km to High Row. The first kilometre is nearly level, and the steady climbing starts at the footpath. Where the lane meets the Old Coach Road, go through the gate at about 2.7 km (about 420 m) onto the open fell, and follow a path south-west, then south-south-west, up to the minor elevation of Low How.

   Waypoints

   Valley approach on the A5091 through Dockray, Aira Beck road bridge, lower intake walls on public footpath 345 022, the lane to High Row, Old Coach Road gate, Low How summit.

   Decision point

   As far as the Old Coach Road gate the route is on mapped roads and paths: the A5091 through Dockray, the roadside footway north, the public footpath west across the fields, and the lane west to High Row. Beyond the gate, the path climbs south-west, then south-south-west; the last 40 m to the top of Low How is off the mapped path.

   Easy to get wrong

   In the summer months, these lower eastern flanks are notoriously choked with waist-high bracken, which obscures the ground and hides deep, ankle-twisting runnels. The faint grassy paths can also become slick clay chutes after heavy Lake District rain, requiring sturdy boots with deep lugs even on this moderate gradient.

   If you need to get off

   If the initial ascent is too taxing, turn around and retrace your steps: back down the path to the Old Coach Road gate, east along the lane and the field path, and back along the A5091 through Dockray to the start; do not contour sideways into the steeper gills that dissect the hillside.

2. 2

   Low How → High Brow (0.7 km, 94 m)

   Climb of about 94 m over 0.7 km (around 13% average).

   Push straight up the increasingly steep, grassy incline, leaving the rolling lower slopes behind to tackle the sharp, direct pull up the spine of the ridge to High Brow. The whole stage is on true open fell, with the path cutting directly into the slope; you left the farmland behind at the Old Coach Road gate.

   Waypoints

   Low How, steep grassy spur, High Brow summit.

   Decision point

   The topographical shape of the ridge acts as a natural handrail; you merely need to follow the crest of the spur straight up to the high point of High Brow.

   Easy to get wrong

   This is a short but lung-busting pitch where the gradient jumps significantly to 12%. The wet grass offers minimal purchase, meaning your calves will take the brunt of the work, and a slip here results in a frustrating slide back down the hill.

   If you need to get off

   The only sensible retreat is to reverse your line of ascent straight back down the grassy spur to Low How; bailing off the sides of this spur will dump you into rough, trackless ravines.

3. 3

   High Brow → Randerside (2.1 km, 174 m)

   Climb of about 174 m over 2.1 km (around 8% average).

   Continue the upward trajectory along the broad, sweeping grassy ridge line, covering a fair distance of rolling upland moorland to reach the distinct bump of Randerside. The average gradient eases compared to the previous stage, and the first 0.8 km, level with a slight dip to about 550 m, allows a steady, striding pace across the expansive, exposed fell; after the dip, the climbing builds to a pull of about 700 m as steep as the climb to High Brow, which eases over the last 300 m to Randerside.

   Waypoints

   High Brow, upland moorland traverse, Randerside (the line passes about 50 m from the top).

   Decision point

   Faint grassy trods weave across the moorland, but in thick clag, maintaining a steady westerly compass bearing is essential to stay central on the broad ridge and hit the rise of Randerside.

   Easy to get wrong

   You are now heavily exposed to prevailing weather systems blowing across the Helvellyn massif. The broad depressions on this section hold spongy, boot-soaking peat bogs, and finding a dry line requires constant micro-navigation to weave around the worst of the waterlogged tussocks.

   If you need to get off

   If weather conditions deteriorate on the exposed moor, retrace the route east the way you came; no other way off this ridge has been checked for this guide.

4. 4

   Randerside → Great Dodd (0.9 km, 140 m)

   Climb of about 140 m over 0.9 km (around 16% average).

   Dig in for a brutally steep, concentrated ascent up the final eastern flank of the main Helvellyn range, pushing hard to crest the massive, domed plateau of Great Dodd. The path climbs steeply up a mixture of degraded grass and loose stone to break the 800-meter contour line, easing over the last 200 m to the summit.

   Waypoints

   Randerside, Great Dodd eastern flank, Great Dodd summit shelter.

   Decision point

   The grassy bridleway climbs west-south-west up the steep bank, then turns south for the last 250 m as the gradient eases onto the vast summit plateau, where you can then locate the prominent stone wind shelter.

   Easy to get wrong

   At a 16% average gradient over high-mountain terrain, this is the physical crux of the route. The final pull is physically draining, highly exposed to the wind, and in winter conditions, this slope can hold hard-packed snow and ice that demands crampons and an ice axe.

   If you need to get off

   If you are unable to crest the summit safely, turn around and carefully retrace your steps down the steep eastern flank to Randerside. Do not attempt to traverse horizontally across the steep face of Great Dodd, as the ground is heavily broken and precipitous.

5. 5

   Great Dodd → Stybarrow Dodd (1.9 km, 80 m)

   Descent of about 92 m, then a climb of about 80 m, over 1.9 km.

   Traverse south along the magnificent, high-level skyline of the Helvellyn range, dropping gently into the broad, grassy saddle of Watson's Dodd before a mild pull brings you to the summit of Stybarrow Dodd. This is high-altitude, plateau walking at its finest, offering sweeping panoramic views on a clear day.

   Waypoints

   Great Dodd summit, Watson's Dodd col, Stybarrow Dodd summit.

   Decision point

   A well-worn, high-level trod connects the summits, but in mist or snow, rely on rigorous compass bearings and pacing between the peaks.

   Easy to get wrong

   The true danger here is navigation in poor visibility; the Dodds form a massive, rounded, and featureless plateau that looks identical in every direction when wrapped in thick clag. Whiteout conditions here can lead walkers off course. Gale-force winds also violently funnel over these saddles.

   If you need to get off

   If the ridge becomes violently inhospitable, retrace your steps to Great Dodd; Sticks Pass has not been checked for this guide as an escape. Under no circumstances should you bail blindly to the west, where the terrain drops sheer into the craggy ravines of St John's in the Vale.

6. 6

   Stybarrow Dodd → Hart Side (2.2 km, 19 m)

   Descent of about 90 m over 2.2 km.

   Leave the main spine of the Helvellyn range heading south-east, then swing through east to north-east along a long, broad, and grassy spur down to the modest, flat elevation of Hart Side. You will lose altitude quickly at first before the gradient shallows out into a sprawling, boggy moorland.

   Waypoints

   Stybarrow Dodd eastern shoulder, Hart Side summit.

   Decision point

   Take a compass bearing when leaving Stybarrow Dodd: the track leaves south-east, then swings through east to north-east; the top of Hart Side is barely a bump on the ridge, so trust your compass rather than looking for a prominent peak.

   Easy to get wrong

   The spur heading east is incredibly broad, making it very easy to drift too far north or south off the optimal line. The shallow depressions leading to Hart Side hold notoriously deep, boot-sucking peat bogs that demand careful route-picking to avoid sinking in past your ankles. Almost all grass with few features, the Dodds are a notorious place to go wrong in mist or whiteout — easy to drift off a vague bearing into the wrong valley.

   If you need to get off

   No way off this stretch has been checked for this guide other than the route itself. Do not assume a compass direction alone identifies a safe way off: judge going on or going back from where you are.

7. 7

   Hart Side → Birkett Fell (0.6 km, 2 m)

   Undulating section of about 0.6 km.

   Enjoy a fast, almost flat stride across the spongy moorland plateau, tracking east from Hart Side to cross the barely distinguishable, grassy top of Birkett Fell. The elevation barely changes, allowing you to cover this short distance in a matter of minutes.

   Waypoints

   Hart Side, upland moorland, Birkett Fell top.

   Decision point

   Maintain an easterly compass bearing from Hart Side; visual navigation is essentially useless here if the cloud base drops.

   Easy to get wrong

   A grassy path crosses it, but the terrain is featureless and wet, with bog over about 250 m just before Birkett Fell. The primary challenge is navigational: Birkett Fell has no dramatic topographical feature to signal you have arrived, though there is a cairn at the top. Hart Side's southern edge drops steeply in the cliffs of Glencoyne Head, with precipitous views east.

   If you need to get off

   Hart Side's south side drops steeply in the cliffs of Glencoyne Head (hazard note above). No way off this plateau other than the route has been checked for this guide; if disoriented, stop and relocate before going on.

8. 8

   Birkett Fell → Brown Hills (1.6 km, 1 m)

   Descent of about 173 m over 1.6 km.

   Begin a committed, sustained descent down the eastern flanks of the fell system, losing significant altitude as you drop off the high plateau and onto the rolling, bracken-covered lower slopes that make up Brown Hills. The descent is grassy and on a path throughout: steep for about 0.9 km, crossing Little Aira Beck and then a wall by a stepover stile, before it eases over the last 0.7 km to Brown Hills.

   Waypoints

   Birkett Fell eastern slopes, grassy descent face, Brown Hills ridge.

   Decision point

   The distinct profile of the descending ridge line acts as your primary visual guide; simply follow the nose of the spur downwards as it sweeps toward the valley floor.

   Easy to get wrong

   This steep, slick grassy descent is heavily punishing on tired knees. In wet weather, this face acts as a massive sponge, making the footing treacherous and prone to sudden slips. As you drop lower, summer bracken returns, hiding rocks and rabbit holes that can easily snap an ankle.

   If you need to get off

   This stage descends towards the valley on the route's own line; stay on it.

9. 9

   Brown Hills → Round How (2.2 km, 28 m)

   Descent of about 168 m over 2.2 km.

   Continue the north-eastward traverse, threading a path through the rolling, bumpy lower fells to drop further down the slope before crossing the small, rocky protuberance of Round How. The terrain is a mix of rough grazing pasture, rocky outcrops, and descending grassy ramps.

   Waypoints

   Brown Hills, lower fell pathways, Round How summit.

   Decision point

   Glimpses of Ullswater in the valley below act as a massive orienting handrail, ensuring you are continually moving in the correct overall direction toward the valley floor.

   Easy to get wrong

   A grassy footpath runs the whole stage, much of it public footpath 345 027, crossing Near Swan Beck and then two streams at fords, the second of them Groovegill Beck. The short pull onto the rocky top of Round How involves navigating a few minor rocky steps that require care when wet.

   If you need to get off

   No shortcut to the lake road has been checked for this guide; stay on the route.

10. 10

    Round How → Bracken How (0.3 km, 8 m)

    Undulating section of about 0.3 km.

    Make a very short, virtually flat crossing over rough grazing land to bridge the brief gap between Round How and the neighboring minor, grass-covered bump of Bracken How.

    Waypoints

    Round How, rough pasture, Bracken How.

    Decision point

    Bracken How is visible immediately in front of you; simply follow a direct line of sight to the minor summit.

    Easy to get wrong

    This is a trivial transition stage, but the ground between the bumps is heavily rutted by livestock and holds deep, muddy puddles that can still soak your boots at the very end of the day.

    If you need to get off

    The finish is 0.6 km on (stage 11); stay on the route.

11. Bracken How → Finish (0.6 km, 0 m)

    Descent of about 77 m over 0.6 km.

    From Bracken How, head south-east over near-level ground for about 170 m to join a grassy footpath, which turns north-east and plunges down the final, steep grassy bank, navigating the thick lower bracken, through a gate in the boundary wall and over a stepover stile to reach the valley road; about 30 m along the A5091 takes you back into the car park to complete the route.

    Waypoints

    Bracken How descent, valley boundary wall, finish point.

    Decision point

    The valley road below serves as a clear visual target; follow the footpath down to it, through the gate in the wall and over the stile, to the finish.

    Easy to get wrong

    The final pitch is deceptively steep and notoriously slippery on tired legs. The dense vegetation at the valley floor hides loose rocks and uneven ground, so maintain concentration all the way to the tarmac to avoid a late injury.

    If you need to get off

    You have successfully exited the high fells; this final descent drops you back onto the valley road and your starting point.